Located in the vinously-remote town of Montagnieu in the vinously-remote region of Bugey is Cave Peillot. In this compact domaine - house here, cellar there - Franck Peillot is committed to preserving the traditional grapes Altesse and Mondeuse and the steep, hard-to-farm vineyard sites that begin just steps down the road. As neighbors get fed up with working these steep sites by hand and abandon their vineyards, Franck does his best to take them over, motivated by a sense of responsibility rather than a business model.
If you can judge a vigneron by the company he keeps, than my dinner with the exceedingly generous Franck offers much to recommend. Franck pulled some of his favorites from his personal cellar, including a late 90's Poulsard from Pierre Overnoy and a month-old Bugey-Cerdon from Alain Renardat.
Franck Peillot Bugey Modeuse Montagnieu
This is a wine that isn't often confused. If you consider Gamay to be the happy version of Pinot Noir, then consider Mondeuse to be Gamay's jolly big brother. A healthy purple, with a direct, pleasing character that makes it appropriate for a ride range of foods.
Franck Peillot Bugey Altesse
Franck's Altesse is always a bit of a mystery. I would say that it has a high stylistic standard deviation. On release, the wine is linear and pure, especially in years when Franck skips malo. A few years later the wine becomes more expansive and weighty; and one begins to see the link between Altesse and Furmint. With 8-10 years, the Altesse is now a show-stopper, fully gold, thick and rich.
Franck Peillot Bugey Pinot
This is Pinot Droit, a type of pinot noir typically seen in Champagne and named for its straight shoots, from a vineyards a couple miles south of Montagnieu. Clean and fruity,